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The tumultuous division is dramatically illustrated along the road to Popayan, a colonial city some 200 hundred miles north of the Ecuadorian border.The journey's first phase is defined by verdant mountainous terrain and old town hostels bangkok chilled air. Needless to say our hostage team kicked ass!Finally Friday arrived and although nobody in the outside world had paid my dollar hostage ransom I told the FURC members I had to get back to Ecuador. The Columbian woman reluctantly agreed. Since the group had cunningly confiscated a helicopter from a military installation many months back, they hoped to use the helicopter to haul a lavish jacuzzi from a prominent political figure's residence back to their compound, to help them entice more volunteer hostages. I told them to text me when they do.I thought to mention that, as a possible alternative income source, they might consider getting on the ecotourism bandwagon by creating FURC tours. They pondered this new idea.After saying our goodbyes, we jumped into the truck, where I was once again blindfolded, and then returned through the jungle to civilization.That's one version of what happened during my Columbian visit. Now...here's another.One of the joys and challenges to traveling is separating fact from fiction, the truth from the myth. Though far from completely safe, guerrilla encounters along the major Columbian travel routes have diminished considerably in recent years. My journey to and from Popayan went very smoothly, without incident.The occasional bus robbery does occur, primarily at night. Are they FARC influenced or just the criminal habits of thieves and thugs. Who knows?FARC does wield considerable influence in the outlying countryside and villages near Popayan however no tourist, from what I've heard, has been bothered. All travelers I've spoken with had not encountered any problems and were thoroughly enjoying their travels through Columbia. The usual safeguards and cautions to traveling certainly still apply, especially in the big cities.

Popayan is a very easygoing city, especially in the old town's colonial section: whitewashed buildings, wrought iron balconies, churches around every other corner. Popayan had been the seat of power several centuries ago while the region was still under Spanish rule. Power later ceded to Bogota and Popayan, probably to its benefit, has maintained backseat status ever since.After suffering a devastating earthquake in 1983, within the last ten years Popayan has gone through a complete renovation, resurrecting itself to surpass its former glory.My first night in Popayan I experienced a 6.8 magnitude earthquake while sitting in my hostel. The epicenter was over 150 miles away deep below the Columbian coastal surface. No damage done in Popayan, just a wild rolling sensation.A university town, the cultural amenities in Popayan are plentiful as are the beautiful women. The cafes are plentiful as well. Their interiors speak volumes, alluding to a rich colorful history: old, dark wooden chairs and tables, hard wood floors and balconies, cracked stucco and faded cultural posters.Sipping my espresso, I gazed toward the open door and the passing crowd. I can imagine militias and guerrillas running past, protesters marching by, workmen moving their horse-drawn work carts, and colorful villagers moving their produce on the backs of llamas. Was it yesterday or was it two, three centuries ago.

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